Corti Brothers newsletter spring 2001 page 4

Corti Brothers Newsletter for Spring 2001 Page 4

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CORTI BROTHERS' SELECTION OF NEW EXTRA VIRGIN OILS: HARVEST 2000

Corti Brothers has now received all of our 2000 harvest selection of extra virgin olive oil from several producing countries. 2000 was a difficult year for oil production through out the Mediterranean. Only top producers managed to bottle fine oil which will give a lot of pleasure. In spite of the weather, what quality oil was produced is very good; quantity is down considerably--Italy 32% less compared to 1999.

There are three typologies for extra virgin oil. They are based on olive fruit intensity and are: light, medium, and intense fruitiness. However, this has nothing to do with fruit--berry or exotic fruit character--as in wine, but that of the olive.

It is also improper to speak of "the best" oil. The best for what purpose? It is necessary that the oil be produced by mechanical means; have less than 1% oleic acid, and not have any taste defects. This last is conveniently forgotten when some oils are bottled. Not having any defects in taste is most important, because having low oleic acid is something even an inedible oil can have.

Now, all E.U. oil producing countries must have extra virgin oil undergo a panel test with local expert tasters and achieve an average score of 6.5 out of a possible 9. If the oil submitted does not get such a score, it legally cannot be sold as an extra virgin. In our list of oil, you will also have the panel test score.

From Crete
Once again, the Psyllakis family estate at Zymbragos, in western Crete, has produced a lovely oil from the small fruited Koroneiki variety. Extracted using the Sinolea system of "selective filtration," the oil is literally dripped from metal blades dipping into the crushed olive paste. Hazy, unfiltered, this oil has merely been settled and racked off its deposit. It has a fragrant, slight artichoke/grass scent, medium fruity intensity; medium pungency, and low bitterness.

BIOJOY, Psyllakis Estate (panel score: 8.5)

From Spain
Last year, the Lovera family, owners of this estate, used the very Andalusian word "Cortijo" rather than the more Castillian Spanish "Hacienda" for their label. It will be Hacienda Fuencubierta from now on. This splendid oil, considered one of the 10 best in Spain, is a blend of Picual, Hojiblanca, Ocal, and Arbequina varieties from the Cordoba area. Since the Loveras only bottle their best production (the rest is sold off) quality is very high. Picked in late October, before the November and December rains which affected a great deal of Spain's production, this is an intense oil with a delicious, green fruit character and great balance due to the skillful blending of the varieties. Filtered.

HACIENDA FUENCUBIERTA, (panel score: 8.1)

From Italy
Here we have the three typologies: light, medium, and intense fruitness. LIGURIA
Ardoino VALL'AUREA is produced from the traditional Ligurian cultivar Taggiasca. Sinolea system produced, VALL'AUREA is an exceptional, delicate, light fruity oil. Ardoino FRUCTUS AUREUS is its technological counterpart. Sinolea extraction is used, but the tiny Taggiasca olives are pitted before being crushed. This is an ancient idea, but only now has up to the minute technology made pitting possible. Pitted fruit gives great stability to oil so it better resists rancidity.

ArdoinoVALL'AUREA, (panel score 8.0)
Ardoino FRUCTUS AUREUS, (panel score 7.5)

UMBRIA
Paolo Fantozzi is one of Italy's leading food scientists and his lovely oil is back in stock. Not only has he improved his production technology using a two phase decanter centrifuge, but his estate of Seggiano is again producing Moraiolo fruit that was lacking in previous years due to dieback from a freeze. JANUS is medium intense oil produced from Frantoio, Leccino, Moraiolo, and San Felice cultivars.

JANUS, Paolo Fantozzi (panel score 7.38)

MANCIANTI
Alfredo Mancianti, an old friend, is one of Italy's foremost oil producers. In the 2000 harvest I selected his UMBRIA DOP oil and unique AFFIORATO. Alfredo uses the very Umbrian cultivar Dolce Agogia in his blend, giving a special roundness to his oils. The AFFIORATO oil is not extracted in the traditional fashion using mechanical separation, but is "skimmed"off the paste surface when it rises on the paste mass. It is produced by "flowering," rising much like cream to the top of milk. Mancianti is the only producer to commercialize this style of oil. The UMBRIA DOP oil is a medium intense oil; the silky AFFIORATO is light medium.

Mancianti UMBRIA DOP (panel score 8.27)
Mancianti AFFIORATO (panel score 8.41)

TUSCANY
I Bonsi is an old property in the Reggello, the most famous area for oil in Tuscany, south of Florence. Owned by the Budini-Gattai family, oil made there is grown on intensive cultivation trees and is cold pressed since the oil is extracted using stone mills and hydraulic presses. This is a very difficult production method since it demands around the clock production. I Bonsi is probably the last large oil producer in Tuscany "pressing olives." They succeed wonderfully.

The LAUDEMIO oil is a special production made from olives harvested in early November and the I BONSI oil is from fruit harvested slightly later, without Moraiolo, which had fallen from the trees due to rain. The LAUDEMIO is an intense fruity oil; the I BONSI, a medium fruity oil.

Fattoria I Bonsi LAUDEMIO (panel score 7.5 )
Fattoria I BONSI (panel score 7.3 )

SARDINIA:

SOLIANA is an oil I discovered last November in central eastern Sardinia, in the village of Oliena. Soliana is the old name for Oliena and means "luminous." Produced from two typical Sardinian cultivars, Bosana and Nera di Oliena, both noted for very high quality and stability, it was harvested in the first 10 days of December, 2000. This is intense fruity oil at its most distinctive. Sardinia currently is making off with practically all of the highest awards in intense fruity oil in Italian competitions. If you like intense fruity oil, here it is!

SOLIANA Oliena AgriBioFood (panel score: 7.9)

With our 2000 harvest oil selection, you have a wide range of oils to choose from, diverse olive cultivars, and all the extraction technologies possible. There is something for everyone.

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